The beauty and health of the human skin is being threatened by one of the biggest campaigns ever conducted in the history of merchandising. Every day on magazine, radio, television and newspapers, we are encouraged to put aside elemental skin care ingredients like soap and water in favor of such complexion "aids" as face foundations, daytime moisturizers, night creams, cleansing creams and rouges.

While some people have skin capable of withstanding the harmful consequences of cosmetics, an estimated 30% of all cosmetic users have skin which is acne prone. This can be a negative factor when looking for an acne treatment.

Women and men alike, in their teens, twenties and even early thirties, are potential candidates for cosmetic acne. The ailment is characterized by many elevated small whiteheads appearing over the cheeks and chin and sometimes the forehead. While cosmetic acne hardly produces scars, it can be unsightly, persistent and bothersome. The skin's pores have a tough time dealing with the skin's normal oil sebum, so applying more irritating oils is one of the worst things you can do.

Even people who are not acne sufferers can actually develop acne through the use of their cosmetics. Since cosmetic acne commonly appears quietly after several months of repeated use of a comedogenic (acne-causing) product, many women do not relate their outbreaks with the given product. The female with cosmetic acne is in a vicious circle; the more she breaks out, the more make-up she applies to cover it up... which only leads to more blemishes.

Advertising confuses the issue. "Oil Free--the Darling of Madison Avenue.

"Oil free" is fast becoming a popular term of the cosmetic industry. Many cosmetic manufacturers are substituting chemicals which, legally speaking, are not catalogued as oil free simply because they derive from synthetic sources rather than from biological sources, i.e., animal, vegetable or mineral.

These synthetic oils, however, are often more acne producing than a biological oil such as mineral oil. Publicity claims for many cosmetic words such as "oil free," "dermatologist tested" and "hypoallergenic" can be very misleading. Hypo-allergenic may mean the product is perfume-free, yet it could still contain ingredients harmful to acne-prone people. "Dermatologist-tested" may be accurate but not completely helpful. The product may have been tested for skin allergy or skin irritancy and its consequences on skin pores may have been missed.

The Oil Migration Test

Not all "oil-free" moisturizers for cosmetics are oil free; some contain oil-like synthetics that can provoke acne-prone skin. How to tell? Dab the moisturizer on good-quality stationery (imprinted 25% cotton fiber). Twenty-four hours later, hold the paper up to daylight and look for oil rings. The extent of migration will correspond to the proportion of oil in the product.

The oil migration test is useful to deduct certain oils in cosmetics, but it is more important to learn to read the labels and evade conflictive ingredients. Remember, not all oils are damaging. Petrolatum and some lighter oils like mineral oil and sunflower oil don't penetrate down into the pore.

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